Lora Gordon, March 19, 2009
It's not immediately obvious that Gaza has tilted on its axis. The scenery is basically the same. Piles of exploded concrete and flattened farms, aggressive taxi drivers, families sitting in the rubble of their homes offering foreigners like us cups of tea, then stretches where all the buildings are disconcertingly whole and you can forget where you are, or at least the media cliche of where you are.
I live in one of those areas where you forget Gaza was bombed to hell a month ago. Rimall is the Gaza City neighborhood where Al Mezan Centre for Human Rights rented me an apartment, a little studio that opens onto an enormous white tile patio lined with trees. When I walk outside in a t-shirt no one looks at me funny. When I turn left, then right, then left, walk one block and bump onto one of those piles of concrete – the Ministry of the Interior – and an intersection whose traffic lights don't work and whose street signs were blown out of their frames, but the frames are still intact, like empty glasses frames, and the free-for-all traffic pattern does not yield tons of traffic accidents, which is totally unsurprising in the Middle East – when I get to the bombed out ministry I know I've come to Omar al-Mukhtar Street, the main shopping drag in Gaza City.
When I lived in Rafah in 2003 and wanted to feel posh, I would take a servees to Gaza and walk around go to Omar al-Mukhtar Street. Now I live a five-minute walk away and kinda feel like I've hit the big time. The Pizza Inn on Omar al-Mukhtar, where I first ate pineapple pizza, paid for by PA people who were trying to either spy on us, control us, or hang out with the foreigners instead of sitting around at their boring day jobs, now serves all kinds of Arabic food as well as pizza. The park next to what was formerly the Pizza Inn is still there, with the same manicured trrees and red flowers.
Another minute down the street and I'm at Gaza City's Palestine Bank ATM, withdrawing money. Six years ago in Rafah I tried to cash a check and it took a whole morning of negotiations at the Palestine Bank's Rafah branch, and was only possible in the end because one of Mohammed's relatives worked there. I'm pretty sure you still have to go to Gaza City to find an ATM here, but in Gaza City they're everywhere, reminders of ease/normal life/nothing at all.
A lot was different in 2003. I was in Rafah, without ATM access, and the Al-Aqsa Intifada hadn't quite begun to die down. In the afternoons there were home demolitions, in the evenings calls to resistance from the Al-Aqsa Mosque loudspeaker, and at night gunfire at the border, and maybe an invasion and few deaths.
(Read on …)