Dreaming of Palestine
James Zogby, Arab American Institute, June 22, 2003
It was more than 30 years ago that I fell in love with Palestine. It was 1971 and I was in Lebanon doing research for my doctoral dissertation. Ghassan Kanafani, the brilliant Palestinian novelist, advised me “to learn about us, you must go to the camps and immerse yourself in the people.”
And so off I went to Ein al Helweh to spend some time with Abed, a new friend, who introduced me to his family and so many other unforgettable refugees. During my time with them, they told me stories about the homes and villages they left in Palestine, about the trauma of the 1948 exodus and about their lives in the camp, their “temporary Palestine”.
They also showed me pictures and other remnants of the life that had been—most especially their treasured keys to the homes they had left and to which they hoped to return.
Far from being a depressing experience, there was beauty in Ein al Helweh. The camp, though desperately poor made a remarkable statement about the power of the human spirit to create and to hope. Internally Ein al Helweh was organized as a recreation of Palestine. Its inhabitants had clustered together in neighborhoods reflecting the towns and villages from which they had been expelled. Each neighborhood bore their Palestinian names. Walking down the streets of Ein al Helweh I passed through Safsaf, Ras Al Ahmar, and Safad.

Ramallah: Allan Richardson stands in the empty office where he plans a call center for Palestine's second mobile network. (Joshua Mitnick)



